Conterno-Fantino have once again produced one of the vintage's finest wines with their stunning 2004 Barolo Sori Ginestra, which is just as impressive in bottle as it has been on the several occasions I have tasted it from barrel. This explosive, heady Barolo bursts onto the palate with seamless layers of ripe dark fruit, black cherries, menthol, cinnamon, pine and minerals, revealing profound depth and richness. It offers superb length, gorgeous, sweet tannins and a finish that lasts forever. Although it is a surprisingly accessible Sori Ginestra at this stage, I expect it will close down at some point in the near future. Readers who have an opportunity to taste this wine in the next few months should not hesitate to do so. This is a remarkable Barolo in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolos but in recent years Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an entirely new level. These Barolos can often be massively structured and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos. “We harvested most of our fruit on October 5 and 6,” says Guido Fantino. “We did 6-8 days of fermentation after which the wines went into French oak (100% new). The malos were very long and weren't completely finished until January.” Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900