The 2014 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is matured in 50% new oak and is 100% whole bunch fruit. It is blessed with a winsome bouquet. As usual, there is something very natural, unimposing and refined on the nose: blackberry and briary, a hint of graphite, a subtle leafiness maybe, and yet delineated and very pure. The palate is lively and energetic with crisp tannin, black rather than red fruit, linear and very classic in style with what you might call a "cool" marine-influenced finish that has fine salinity. What a great Clos des Lambrays that will put a smile on the face of those that adore refined Burgundy. Thierry Brouin has one year remaining as winemaker at Domaine de Lambrays and then a contractual two years as a consultant. "I'll be 70 by then," he told me with a Gallic shrug of the shoulders. "It's time for new blood." What with Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from Clos des Tart, it appears that a chapter in Morey-Saint-Denis is closing and a new one will be opening. The question is: will the next chapter be as good a read as the last? I hope so.