Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a divisive wine, not one for those seeking layer upon layer of fruit. It is more mature in appearance than its peers, perhaps missing the fruit intensity one would anticipate from a grand cru of this stature. There is something a little "dusty attic" here although that ebbs away with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly leafy entry, gentle and elegant, full of personality. It is missing the weight and volume that a more benevolent vintage would have lent and it does not quite possess the structure or substance to suggest long-term. Yet, it remains a well-crafted and to put it prosaically, is absolutely delicious. Tasted September 2016.