The youngest of the vines informing Mugnier's 2005 Musigny just reached forty. This explodes from the glass with aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry, red currant, marzipan, diverse bitter-sweet florals and citrus zest. In the mouth, there is a palpable sense of sheer density yet weightlessness (once again putting me in mind of a great, red Riesling!) Almost implosively fresh fruit concentration is layered with tactile notes of citrus zest and chalky minerality, veal-stock richness, pungent spices, and an armload of flowers. (The 2004, incidentally, is effusive and juicy in personality, with superb penetration and refined length.)