The 2001 Oreno is simply a great wine. An inky ruby with purple highlights, intensely expansive and sweet on a fruit-rich nose which is loaded with smoky tar and graphite notes, it is packed and powerful on the palate with a density and concentration which are cunningly concealed by the plush and caressing texture, the superb balance and exceptional length of the finish and aftertaste. Drink: 2005-2025. Sette Ponti is located in the Arno river valley south of Florence, an area with some reputation in the distant past but, until recently, not a site for better wine in Tuscany. The picture is now changing, however, and one of the major movers and shakers is Antonio Moretti, a restless and ambitious entrepreneur who has given new dynamism to his family's estate. After an excellent debut in 1999 and some very good wines in the difficult 2000 vintage, he has hit the jackpot in 2001 with wines which are destined to put this label on the map. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300