A bottling that regularly excels chez Dauvissat, the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Sechet opens in the glass with delicate aromas of citrus peel, grapefruit, crisp green apples and white flowers, with only subtle hints of the oyster shell to come. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with a deep and tight-knit core, striking tension and a searingly mineral finish. Sechet—where Dauvissat owns a 0.8-hectare parcel—is located in the Vaillons Valley, but its windier situation and soils richer in active limestone mean it's typically much chalkier and more tensile than the other climats that make up Vaillons.