The 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with a reticent bouquet of lemon rind, citrus, hazelnut cream, white flowers and mandarin oil. On the palate, it's full-bodied, both denser and blockier than the Bienvenues-Batard, with exceptional concentration, tangy acids and a long finish. Today, the wine is only partially formed, but it's immensely promising. Pierre Vincent told me that it attained 12.8% natural alcohol, but despite that rather modest degree for a grand cru white Burgundy, it displays plenty of power and substance.