D'Arenberg's most famous wine is its flagship, The Dead Arm Shiraz. The 2005 The Dead Arm Shiraz is sourced from ancient head-pruned vines. It was aged for 22 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak. It is opaque purple/black with an expansive perfume of toast, smoke, spice box, mineral, pencil lead, tar, licorice, blueberry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, opulent, and super-concentrated, this structured, lengthy wine will benefit from 3-5 years of cellaring and drink well through 2025. D'Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on Rhone varietals, is wide-ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.darenberg.com.au; Also tasted: 2005 The Stump Jump Shiraz (82), 2005 The Custodian Grenache (84), 2005 Sticks and Stones Tempranillo, Grenache, Souzao (84)