The 2003 Dom Perignon is maturing very gracefully in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of smoke, bread dough, waxy lemon rind and confit citrus. On the palate, the wine is ample, vinous and full-bodied but retains excellent definition, and it's structured around chewy dry extract from mature skins, which compensates for its comparative lack of acidity. It will be interesting to follow its evolution over the coming decade.