From 60-year-old vines high up above Echezeaux, the Cathiard 2005 Vosne-Romanee En Orveaux is the most austere wine on this occasion, with a chalky mineral character and bright but slightly tart red fruit marked by candied and caramelized inflections and a considerable evidence of new wood. Smoked meat character emerges beneath the alternating bright and caramelized black fruits in the finish. Not that this wine is entirely unimpressive - far from it - but could it just be having a bad day, I wonder? Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70