The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia is another huge wine from Lisini. It doesn't have the textural depth or roundness of the Riserva in 2006, instead it shows greater aromatic complexity and nuance. Sweet hints of tobacco, wild herbs, crushed flowers and cedar are layered into the powerful, linear finish. Here, too, readers will need to be patient. The Ugolaia spent four full years in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031 . I was struck with the wines I tasted from Lisini this year. All three Brunelli merit serious attention. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900