Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 97

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru has a touch of reduction but that soon dissipated to reveal intense black and red fruit, half and half really, crushed rock (sea cave), a very subtle marine influence the develops with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, closing in a little on the finish although I think that is due to the coolness creeping in within the cellar. This is already imbued with a tantalizing sense of magnificence - but would you expect anything less?

Jancis Robinson - 18/20

Cask sample. Slightly brighter colour than the Clos St-Jacques. Tip-of-the-tongue sweetness. Deft and fleet of foot, weightless. Exciting, exotic and luxurious. (MH)

Robert Parker - 93

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques is being matured in 80% new oak, and it was the one wine in the cellar that was quite strongly marked by its time in barrel when I tasted it. Behind the prominent framing of cedary oak lurks a pretty bouquet of red and black berry fruit, orange rind, rich soil tones and peony. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tangy and open-knit with a vanillin-inflected finish. I suspect that the final assemblage will be more integrated than the single barrel, but in its structure and overall profile, this looks to be reminiscent of Rousseau's 2007 Clos Saint-Jacques.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 95

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a bright and youthful nose. Fine delineation with exuberant dark berry fruit, this still needs more bottle age to subsume the oak. Wonderful redcurrant, cranberry notes develop, with orange blossom hints. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiseled tannins and exquisite balance, yet it clams up toward the finish. Huge potential, but it needs time in bottle. Tasted blind at the Wallace brothers' Xmas dinner.

Jancis Robinson - 19/20

They have been waiting for 10 years to replant but can't bring themselves to uproot the old vines. Still couldn't bring themselves to replant this year when they saw the grapes. 80"90% new oak. This is prettily fragrant with red cherry entwined with something more stony. So beautiful on the nose. How can fermented Pinot grapes produce an aroma like this? This is so refined and full of emotion " vibrant and addictive. This is charming beyond Charmes. Very, very fine texture and perfect freshness to complete a perfect whole. (JH)

Robert Parker - 93

The 1993 Clos de Vougeot is medium-to-dark ruby-colored with touches of amber on the edges. It is admirably concentrated and deep, with powerful brambleberry and blackberry fruit. However, this medium-to-full-bodied wine has hard, rugged tannin (verging on astringent) that cause concern. I would opt for drinking it soon, but those readers that have faith in the 1993s may want to hold on to it for a decade to see what happens.

Robert Parker - 100

Jancis Robinson - 18/20

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 1

Intense aromas of black raspberry, pineapple, grapefruit and honey. A lovely citrus and honey palate impression with herbal hints is quite custardy in feel. This has terrific density but is quieter and less dynamic than its two Spatlese predecessors today. 1 star.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 1

Intense aromas of black raspberry, pineapple, grapefruit and honey. A lovely citrus and honey palate impression with herbal hints is quite custardy in feel. This has terrific density but is quieter and less dynamic than its two Spatlese predecessors today. 1 star.

Robert Parker - 95

The 1955 Château Cos d'Estournel was actually poured blind in Burgundy, a bottle with nigh perfect provenance. And it showed. What a fabulous wine. Deep in color, this had a bouquet paradoxically youthful and yet commensurate with its age - timeless? This is old school Bordeaux on the nose: scents of blackberry, iodine, seaweed and woodland, all beautifully defined. The palate is exquisitely balanced with perfect acidity, the lack of any new oak allowing the terroir to show through. There is a sweetness at its core, almost like a 1953 Claret in style with blackberry, cedar and a tangible marine influence marking the fresh, vital finish. It epitomizes everything great about Claret in this era, also a testament to the greatness of this vintage. Wonderful, just wonderful. Tasted November 2015.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 97

The 1955 Cos d’Estournel repeats the stunning showing of the first one I encountered blind in 2015 coming from the same cache. Noticeably deep and refulgent in color, it has a beguilingly youthful bouquet that seems to have defied all notion of time. It is classic, old school Bordeaux: black fruit, a hint of seaweed, autumn leaves...the scent of walking through woodland on a cold October morning, almost loamy. The palate is beautifully balanced with more sweetness than either the 1959 or 1961, displaying vivacious notes of black fruit, crushed stone, estuary mudflats and freshly rolled tobacco. It is one of the finest 1955 Left Bank wines that I have tasted. Tasted at a private dinner in Burgundy.

Robert Parker - 95

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 98

The 1979 Krug Collection was poured from magnum and unlike the 1964 Private Cuvée, this magnificent Champagne bowled me over. Almost clinical in terms of its delineation on the nose, it exudes spellbinding mineralité, hints of wet limestone, glimpses of brioche, almond and white chalk, all delivered with thrilling energy. The palate is exquisitely balanced with a fine line of acidity that makes this Krug feel so effortless. Harmonious from the start, with traces of blood orange and quince that decorate a finish that fans out gloriously. Utter class. The 1979 Collection encapsulates everything there is to love about Champagne. Certainly in this format I can see it giving another three of four decades of drinking pleasure. 98/Drink 2020-2045

Robert Parker - 96

In a strange way, this rose has a similar personality to the Dom Perignon 1969 tasted in tandem. Its aromatics are hewn from rock " Alpine fresh flecked with Morello and wilted rose petals. The palate is crisp and tense with superb acidity, understated at first but building towards a refined finish of rosewater and blackcurrant leaf. This is just a beautiful champagne that shimmers with tension and refinement, one almost too delectable to cellar. Tasted November 2012.

Antonio Galloni Vinous Media - 93

Another example of this era, the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé offers plenty of energy and tension, both signatures of the vintage. At the same time, though, the fruit never fills out, which tilts the balance to acidity and austerity. Frankly, I liked the 1996 more when it was younger. Today, the fruit has either begun to drop out or is simply less expressive. I look forward to checking in on the 1996 soon to see if this may have been a less than perfect example. Disgorged 2004.