It is very easy to eulogise both the wines and the winemaking ethos of Olivier Humbrecht. The family’s 40ha of vineyards cultivated by Olivier’s father Léonard (and biodynamic since 1997) offer an enviable resource from which individual terroirs have been given expression. In fact, from a combination of several different grape varieties and many excellent sites, one of France’s, indeed the world’s great white wine producers has created a miniature vinous wonderland. More than 30 wines are produced in every vintage – multiply that by the different vintage permutations that a non-interventionist winemaking approach emphasises and you might not ever find time to drink anything else. The wines, made only from fully ripe grapes, are full, concentrated and intense, each expressing something of the essence of their origins. A number of Zind-Humbrecht’s crus are also produced in late-harvested styles and although even regular versions can vary in the degree of residual sugar there is almost always the necessary balance between sweetness and acidity. If the range and variable levels of sweetness can make it difficult to choose an individual bottle, a scale of sweetness on each label between Indice 1 and 5 (1 being dry) will help make it less bewildering. Some of the very dry styles can seem almost extreme with a deep colour, underlying acidity and not inconsiderable alcohol sometimes over 15%. Highlights include a fascinating array of fine Riesling: Clos Saint-Urbain combines breadth and a fine minerality; Brand has great structure and power that unfurls slowly with age and the late-harvested examples are of stunning qualty. Clos Windsbuhl shows an intense fruit depth; while Clos Hauserer can be more classically crisp and stimulating. Fine Pinot Gris include a very rich, creamy Vieilles Vignes example, potent Rotenberg, vibrant and deeply fruity Clos Windsbuhl and the smoky, minerally and at times almost austerely dry but exhilarating Clos Saint-Urbain, all of which are surpassed by the Clos Jebsal for sheer richness and substance, the VT being one of the greatest examples of the variety in the region. Impressively rich and aromatic Gewürztraminers include fine, minerally Wintzerheim, broad and powerful Herrenweg, rich, almost overwhelming Heimbourg, exotic Goldert and marvelously deep and concentrated Clos Windsbuhl. Perhaps the best comes from the great Hengst vineyard. There is also a very small amount of Grand Cru Rangen Clos Saint-Urbain. Fine Muscat is also made, both deeply grapey Herrenweg and a more expressive, floral Goldert. Muscat excepted, almost all the wines need a decent amount of bottle-age to show at their best. Regular bottlings should have at least 2 or 3 years’ ageing; most lieu-dits or grands crus (whether in regular versions or either VT or SGN styles) deserve at least 5 or 6 years and the wines will keep very well indeed. Recently added is a Vin de France Zind which is an interesting and unusual blend of Chardonnay and Auxerrois. The list below includes most but not all of the extensive range. (DM)
