A small range of excellent wines is made at this domaine, which has been run by Isabel Ferrando since 2003. She has enjoyed input from enologist Philippe Cambie and the vineyards are now fully certified organic. All 13 authorised varieties are planted and the vines average around 60 years of age resulting in naturally low yields and impressive flavour and concentration in the grapes. Grenache is the most important variety numerically although Mourvèdre is also key to quality with some vines approaching 100 years of age. Replanting where necessary is done by mass selection. The white Châteauneuf-du-Pape is full of character. Coming from mainly Clairette and Roussanne the wine is aged in a mix of one-third new wood and older barrels for just six months giving a rich and approachable style. The Cuvée Spéciale Vieilles Clairettes is one of the finest whites of the appellation. The old Clairette vines are dry-farmed and give a yield of just 15 hl/ha. Very intense, rich and opulent, the wine is aged for two years and bottled unfiltered. The red Cuvée Classique is ripe and approachable with attractive black fruits and spices. Grenache dominates the blend. The other two red Saint-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Papes are a clear step up. The Auguste Favier is dominated by Grenache and also includes old Cinsault. It is aged in a mix of concrete and older hogsheads to emphasise the dark, smoky exotic fruit. The immensely complex and concentrated Collection Charles Giraud is like all the reds vinified with stems and comes from a mix of very old Grenache (80 years), Mourvèdre (60 years) and Syrah (60 years of age). Ageing is in used 600 litre hogsheads to emphasise the quality and character of the wine. The red Colombis comes from a separate domaine holding planted with very old Grenache, at least 60 years of age. Ageing is in used wood and offering intense Grenache berry fruits and spicy garrigue scents. The top reds are impressively ageworthy. (DM)
