An outstanding domaine. Jean-François’s Meursaults are rivalled only by those from LAFON and perhaps one or two others. Yet apart from from a little grand cru Corton-Charlemagne and premier cru Perrières, his reputation has been established with village-level wines, an indication of his talent and dedication. There is great attention to detail in the vineyard and as at many top-quality estates vines are replaced one at time when necessary and from the best existing plant material. The approach to vinification is flexible to maximise the potential of each vintage and long fermentations are also favoured. What makes the wines so special? Well, a grace, subtlety and purity allied to a remarkably well delineated complexity. The depth, length, structure and concentration are also given. The floral, fruit and mineral components, as well as a fine grilled nuts character that comes with age, give the wines extra finesse over most other examples. Of 11ha, almost 2.5 are planted to Pinot Noir and a chance to try the Volnay Premier Cru shouldn’t be passed up. A little red Auxey-Duresses and Monthelie are also made. The Meursault Vireuils is now being bottled separately as Vireuils Dessous and Vireuils Dessus. Nearly all the whites deserve 5 years’ age but will keep for 10 or more. Finding any of the wines at reasonable prices will be a minor miracle.