Pierre-Marie Clape now makes the wine at this domaine, a long established leader in the Cornas appellation under the stewardship of his late father Auguste. The vine growing and winemaking is fiercely traditional, old vines are prized, vines are re planted by mass selection and no new wood is used whatsoever. However, any stems retained during vinification are always fully ripened including crucially the stems and each parcel is vinified individually before ageing for close to two years in foudre. The resulting wines are supple with harmonious tannin and fruit, balanced, very refined and capable of long ageing. A total of 8 ha of vines from a number of first class precipitous, terraced plots that date from the 1890s contribute to the impressive quality. By necessity, everything must be done by hand. The Cornas is justifiably worthy of our top super five star rating. The Cuvée Renaissance is a second wine. However, although it’s made to help maintain the quality of the Cornas, it’s also very impressive. Inevitably from younger vines, it lacks the weight and power of the grand vin. Both the intense, spicy Côtes du Rhône red and rounded, richly textured Saint-Péray offer reasonable value and there is also an IGP Syrah, Le Vin des Amis (£D). (DM)