Louis Barruol owns vines only in Gigondas but in recent years he has made an excellent small range of négociant wines as well which are labelled Saint-Cosme. The Côtes du Rhône offerings represent excellent value, notably the reds, whereas the Gigondas limited release Valbelle, Le Claux, Le Poste and Hominis Fidis as well as the Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côte-Rôtie are all impressively concentrated and ageworthy. The Gigondas bottlings are dense and powerful and with richly textured fruit and well judged new oak. They are among the finest in the appellation, both intense and very complex. There is also increasingly good Condrieu and the potential here is exciting. Red and white approachable, easy drink styles are also released under the Little James label. (DM)
