A strikingly pungent alliance of peppermint, pennyroyal, lemon rind and chalk dust surges from the glass of Fevre's 2012 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots - tasted some six months before bottling - and allies itself on a firm, bright palate with crab apple and toasted shrimp shells. Hints of noble fungus and bittersweet floral perfume emerge as the glass stands open, but the emphasis here remains on tart fruits, green herbs, and stuff that requires a mineral vocabulary to imperfectly capture. This energetic but austere cru grips with formidable, pungent, brash tenacity. Its aptitude for refreshing, invigorating and tapping the salivary glands already, thankfully, triumphs over its austerity. Look for excitement through at least 2022.